Palate Freshener: Rejigged favourites, Grilled meats and Sharp Japanese modernism


Image of Goosnargh duck with carrots, smoked eel and apple
This time: a revamped menu at a Durham favourite, a top meat grill in Middlesbrough and sharp Japanese modernism in Beverley

If you like: Rejigged favourites
Then try: Restaurant DH1, Durham
You’ve probably been loads of times before, but there’s a newly launched midweek market menu here which has illicited many silent nods of approval and rapidly recalculated weeknight plans. You get three courses for £30 on Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday, including hay-smoked Goosnargh duck with carrots, smoked eel and apple. 

If you like: Grilled meats and a waft of shisha
Then try: Aurum Lounge, Middlesbrough
This shisha bar and meat grillery takes its meat very seriously, especially its steaks, and the gourmet burgers are the kind of gourmet burger which aren’t content to simply masquerade as a gourmet burger while actually being just a hot meat sandwich with an enormous amount of distracting rubbish on top. They’re the real deal.

If you like: Sharp Japanese modernism
Then try: Ogino, Beverley
Japanese food is massive at the moment – chuck a brick in Leeds and you’ll probably hit a chef figuring out how to get yuzu onto their menu – but for all the fusion around, there’s nothing like pure Japanese cooking for a taste of tomorrow. The vibe here is contemporary, but with reverence for tradition and local ingredients.

Published in: October 2017

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