Bamburgh, Seahouses & Embleton
Dotted along a small stretch of Northumberland’s most breathtaking coastline, discover three individual coastal villages
In Bamburgh, as well as the instantly-recognisable castle and vast sandy beach, you’ll find a pretty, bustling village packed with welcoming pubs, a brilliant bistro and oodles of history. To the north, past the golf club, you’ll find Budle Bay, while to the south lies Seahouses. Great for families – think penny arcades, a harbour busy with boat trips, and a plethora of proper fish ’n’ chip shops – this is Northumberland’s most traditional seaside resort town.
Further south again, past the villages of Beadnell (stop for handmade, wood-fired pizzas at Box Pizza) and Newton-by-the-Sea is Embleton. This peaceful village is only a short stroll through the dunes from Embleton Bay – a broad sweep of sand overlooked by the ruins of Dunstanburgh Castle. Secluded, spacious and stunningly beautiful, this is one of Northumberland’s true gems.
Exploring Bamburgh’s handful of brilliant hotel-cum-pubs is its own reward – don’t miss the The Lorde Crewe and The Victoria, both of which serve good food as well as having great dog-friendly bar areas. Book ahead to guarantee a table at The Potted Lobster – a brilliant bistro specialising in local seafood, or head to the hidden Walled Garden for authentic wood-fired pizza.
Sandsend, Whitby & Robin Hood’s Bay
Discover the rich history of the Yorkshire coast in the winding streets of this fascinating seaside trio
There’s something undeniably dramatic about Sandsend, Whitby and Robin Hood’s Bay. Each has its own distinct personality but, together, they give a tantalising glimpse into the darker corners of the coast’s history and mythology, where smugglers, vampires and ghosts haunt winding, cobbled streets. Whitby, which inspired Bram Stoker to write Dracula and Captain Cook to venture forth on the Endeavour, is flanked by the Gothic ruins of a 13th century abbey on one promontory and a 20-foot whalebone arch on its twin across the harbour. In between are tumbling streets packed with shops, bars, restaurants, visitor attractions and museums. Two miles up the coast at Sandsend you’ll find chocolate box cottages and a wide sweep of beach bisected by a beck that merges with the sea at high tide. Its streets, peppered with holiday homes and a handful of cafes, restaurants and shops, reach up towards the 15,000-acre Mulgrave Estate. The slopes of Sandsend are, however, nothing compared to the narrow, occasionally breathtakingly vertiginous streets of Robin Hood’s Bay, which all eventually meander down to the family-friendly beach, where children now love to go rock-pooling in the footsteps of smugglers and press gangs.
After all that effort – including the 199 steps up to the Abbey – you’ll probably be ready for a hearty supper. Trenchers was recently voted the UK’s Best Fish & Chip Restaurant 2019, but you might also want to try Andrew Pern’s Star Inn the Harbour or The Moon & Sixpence for great food and great views across the harbour as the sun sets.
After its successful year as the UK City of Culture, Hull is now celebrating its centuries old heritage as Yorkshire’s Maritime City
Arts and culture received a massive boost in Hull during its successful year as the UK City of Culture. Now, the spotlight is being turned on the East Yorkshire port’s maritime heritage. The five-year Yorkshire Maritime City project involves the refurbishment and preservation of four historic sites – Hull Maritime Museum, Dock Office Chambers, North End Shipyard and Queens Gardens – and two historic ships – The Arctic Corsair and Spurn Lightship. When complete, it will tell the story of Hull’s remarkable journey as a global powerhouse for trade and cultural exchange, highlighting the city’s connections to the rest of the world through its role as a major port. If you’re visiting the city with children, The Deep will undoubtedly be top of your must-see list, they might also like a stroll across the Humber Bridge and the full-size whale skeleton at the Maritime Museum.
After all that, you’ll probably be ready for a bite to eat. What was once the home of fruit merchants Butlers & Whites has been transformed into Butler Whites, a relaxed, informal bistro with a regularly changing, experimental menu. For more far-flung fare, try Roots Rum Shack & Kitchen, the city’s first authentic Caribbean restaurant. And for an out-of-town treat, the Pipe & Glass, just 13 miles north of the Hull at South Dalton, is a great choice for Michelin-starred food in a welcoming former coaching inn.
Discover our fulll Guide to the North East and Yorkshire Coast – free with our North East and Yorkshire August editions