Review: Made in Malton comes to Fenwick | Living North

Review: Made in Malton comes to Fenwick


Made in Malton comes to Fenwick
Tom Neylor-Leyland welcomed diners to his exclusive Made in Malton supper club at Fenwick’s Fuego restaurant last night, and we went along to see why this small market town is making waves on Yorkshire’s foodie scene

Opening its doors after hours, Fenwick hosted a special Made in Malton supper club in their Fuego restaurant. This North Yorkshire town has become a major foodie hub, with visitors travelling from across the county and beyond to dine in its many restaurants, cafés and to try its abundant local produce. 

The man at the heart of this success is Tom Naylor-Leyland; husband of fashion and lifestyle muse Alice Naylor-Leyland (star of the hugely-followed mrsalice Instagram page), food lover and boogie woogie piano player. Since making it his home, Tom has transformed the idyllic Yorkshire market town of Malton, helping 26 new food and drink businesses open in the last five years and establishing regular farmer’s markets, food festivals, a new hotel and a cookery school. Championing the local bounty, Tom has helped to grow a family of Made in Malton producers, who’s fine fare was on offer to sample at the exciting supper club.

On arrival, we received a warm welcome and a choice of Ryedale Vineyards’ Dalesman sparkling rosé or a Rare Bird G&T garnished with slices of grapefruit and a sprig of rosemary (I chose the latter – the perfect refreshing drink to kick off the evening). Within minutes, Tom strolled over to introduce himself. His enthusiasm for all things Malton was infectious, advising us on all the places we should visit when we’re next in town, including the ‘amazing’ Groovy Moo gelateria, The Purple Carrot vegetarian café where he often goes for lunch and La Pizzaria, which Tom boasted serves some of the best wood-fired pizzas you’ll ever taste.

When the first courses arrived, the Yorkshire buck-rarebit made using Brass Castle beer and Dale End cheddar was a popular choice. Tom later tells us that the cheese is produced at the Botton Creamery by Camphill Village Trust who support and employ people with disabilities and learning difficulties. The vegetarian option on the menu came straight from The Talbot’s allotment (the inn and cookery school owned by Tom). The summer salad consisted of asparagus, peas, broad beans, jersey royals and pea shoots, which my neighbouring diner assured me were all delicious. My personal choice was the salmon cured in (yes, more) Rare Bird gin served with a beetroot and caper salad with horseradish crème fraîche – a deliciously light dish of classic flavour combinations, you can’t go wrong really. But the real star of the starter show was the wine that accompanied the course. The Hungarian furmint dry white wine was blissfully smooth, which we were told was due to the warm oak notes.

After a brief talk from Tom about the various producers whose food and drink we were trying, we were guided through a gin tasting by Matt from Rare Bird (I know… even more gin). The London dry gin was paired with classic Fevertree tonic water whilst the rhubarb and ginger gin was served with the brand’s Mediterranean variety. Matt doesn’t add any extra sugar to his rhubarb gin, so as someone who normally steers clear of flavoured gins due to their sickly sweet nature, I was pleasantly surprised by this one’s fruity yet refreshing taste. 

I next chose to try the slow-cooked shoulder of Malton hogget with pearl barley, roasted courgettes and green sauce, and whilst this hearty dish was packed with flavour, I was slightly envious of the lighter fish course. The Whitby fish stew showcased fresh seafood from the North, including lobster, mullet, prawns, mussels and hake, all served with Bluebird Bakery sourdough and red pepper, saffron and garlic mayonnaise.

For dessert you could try affogato made with Groovy Moo’s gelato, Yorkshire parkin with butterscotch sauce or a Malton mess with meringue, whipped cream, raspberries and rhubarb. A lovely light end to the meal, accompanied by Rhuchello, a rhubarb liquor. 

As we discussed the evening over Roost coffee and macaroons courtesy of Florian Poirot, it was collectively decided that if the night’s menu was anything to go by, Malton is certainly putting Yorkshire produce on the UK’s foodie map. We can’t wait for our next visit.

Published in: June 2019

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