Spend the Perfect Weekend in Bamburgh, Seahouses, Embleton and Craster
Here's what not to miss
The picturesque village of Bamburgh is always a popular destination for visitors to Northumberland and understandably so. Bamburgh has pubs and bistros, a gorgeous sandy beach and, of course, the ever-present backdrop of its iconic castle. Just to the north of Bamburgh, the tranquil Budle Bay is a relatively hidden gem, but greatly appreciated by bird watchers and kite surfers, while heading south you’ll find Seahouses. This bustling resort is the place to go for seaside nostalgia, with penny arcades, boat trips from the harbour and plenty of proper fish ’n’ chip shops.
Carry on south and you’ll arrive at Beadnell and a sweeping sandy bay that is a paradise for water sports enthusiasts, or continue down the coast to the tiny fishing village of Low Newton and take a seat on the village green for a cold pint of The Ship Inn’s real ale. From here the next stop is Embleton, a small village within walking distance of the dramatic ruins of Dunstanburgh Castle and the vast expanse of Embleton Bay and Dunstanburgh Castle Golf Course. Venture beyond the castle and you’ll find Craster, perhaps most famed for its kippers, but also a great base from which to explore more stunning walking routes along the coast.
Base Camp
In Bamburgh, the Grade II-listed Lord Crewe has earned five stars from the AA for its seven luxurious, individually designed bedrooms, and there’s some great seafood to be had in the restaurant too. Also in the village, dog friendly Marram House sleeps eight and has a private, south-facing garden (and off-street parking). Between Bamburgh and Budle Bay, Budle Hall is a stylish, family-run B&B with four beautifully-appointed bedrooms, and a holiday cottage offering plenty of privacy.
In Seahouses, the dog-friendly Bamburgh Castle Inn overlooks the busy harbour and has a great beer garden with views across to the Farnes. Just down the coast, Beadnell Towers is another great option for canine companions, with a number of dog-friendly rooms and a dog-friendly bar perfect for a post-beach walk pint. A few miles inland is Brunton House and cottages with a choice of different accommodation, whilst back towards the sea, in High Newton, try the Garden Rooms on Newton Hall’s Estate and enjoy your own private garden, hot tub and fire pit (the beach at Low Newton is just a 10-minute walk away). A few miles south in Craster, Pegasus Cottage is a stylishly converted fisherman’s cottage beside the harbour, sleeping six and with a south-facing patio.
Perfect Weekend
A walk on Bamburgh beach followed by a visit to the castle is a must, as is a trip to the village’s Grace Darling Museum, and keen golfers should definitely check out Bamburgh’s short but challenging course. Once you’ve worked up an appetite, there’s plenty of choice in the village where the Lord Crewe sets the bar for the handful of excellent hotels-cum-pubs in Bamburgh, but they’re all worth exploring. Book ahead to guarantee a table at The Potted Lobster – a local bistro specialising in local seafood. A weekend here wouldn’t be complete without a trip to the butchers (R Carter & Son) for supplies for a cracking breakfast (they cure and smoke their bacon onsite), and make sure you try one of their much-lauded pies whilst you’re there. The recently opened café in Bamburgh Walled Garden serves fresh, local food from breakfast through lunch, both indoors and out on the part-covered terrace overlooking the adventure playground.
For a fun family day out head a few miles south to Seahouses, where the amusement arcade and crazy golf will keep kids happy, before taking your pick of the fish ’n’ chip shops. Check out the cave of wonders that is the Farne Gift Shop, pop into Independent Food & Drink for supplies from great local producers, then enjoy a round of crazy golf at The Bunker before refuelling with an ice cream from Coxons. Élan Pizzeria is a great spot for food, as is the Black Swan Inn, but for a cold pint with views over the harbour head to The Olde Ship Inn. A trip to the Farne Islands is also a must with the opportunity to see amazing wildlife, which this year (fingers crossed) might include a pod of visiting orcas.
Just off Beadnell beach, a tent-like structure by the carpark is home to The Landing, a beach bar and restaurant where you can enjoy everything from a chilled Aperol on the deck to the freshest seafood, and there’s live music on Sunday afternoons. From here, the walk around the bay to Embleton is spectacular. If you decide to set off on foot, you’ll hit the white-washed village of Low Newton and the popular Ship Inn, before rounding the bay towards Embleton, with Dunstanburgh Castle looming ever-larger on the horizon. The ruins of the 14th century castle itself are spectacular – as are the views out to sea from its lofty position on the headland – and you can reach it on foot from Embleton or Craster.
Between the beach and the village of Embleton lies Dunstanburgh Castle Golf Course, a traditional links course with a friendly clubhouse. In the village there are a couple of pubs and a new Village Farm Shop where you can pick up a paper and local produce for lunch or delicious homemade treats to take to the beach.
Just outside Embleton village, on the road south to Craster, Eleanor’s Byre is a treasure-trove of high-quality homewares, gifts and quirky finds. Choose from a selection of great coffee and more-ish cakes while you browse their eclectic offering or, for something more substantial, you need only slip outside to the car park, where you’ll find quality wood-fired pizzas served up by Embers (check their Instagram or Facebook for opening hours). Just before Craster village, drop into new café and deli, The Arch, for fresh bakes.
For the most authentic of Northumbrian culinary experiences, head into Craster and pick up some famous ‘Craster kippers’ right from the source at L Robson & Son before walking south to the secluded cove at Rumbling Kern and the majestic cliff of Cullernose Point. Once you’ve made your way back, rest up with a well-deserved pint and views of the harbour in The Jolly Fisherman’s beer garden.
Must See
The Farne Islands are home to one of the most exciting and diverse seabird colonies in the UK (including huge numbers of puffins), as well as colonies of seals and even the occasional pod of dolphins (and even orcas) in the surrounding waters. There are 28 islands managed by the National Trust (although a number of them are submerged each high tide) and boat trips to see them set off from Seahouses harbour. Various itineraries are available depending on the time of year and how much time you have, so take some time to plan your trip ahead of your visit. There’s even a sunset cruise for the chance to see seals basking in the evening sunlight or (fingers crossed) a spectacular sunset behind Bamburgh Castle.
