Meet the Northumberland Butchers Taking Part in the World Haggis Championship
Determined to unearth their secret recipe, we catch up with family butchers Turnbull's of Alnwick after their recent appearance at the World Haggis Championship in Scotland
Turnbull’s has a strong reputation built over six generations, dating all the way back to 1880, and while the competition may have been in good fun, owner Mark takes his Northumbrian haggis seriously. ‘I started with the business in 1987 when haggis was made by my Uncle Roger back in the day. The recipe has been tweaked over the years and we do take it very seriously,’ he says.
Set up as the English ‘villains’ in a competition otherwise dominated by Scottish entries, Mark mentions that there has been some friendly (and controversial) debate over the origins of haggis. ‘There’s the claim that haggis originated in Northumberland,’ he says. ‘This dates back centuries obviously. The ancient kingdom of Northumbria ran from the Humber up to Edinburgh so perhaps it got lost amongst that.’ A braver man than many, Mark jokes that the team were ready for a quick getaway should they succeed in the competition. ‘We had our running shoes with us just in case!’
Set up as the English ‘villains’ in a competition otherwise dominated by Scottish entries, Mark mentions that there has been some friendly (and controversial) debate over the origins of haggis. ‘There’s the claim that haggis originated in Northumberland,’ he says. ‘This dates back centuries obviously. The ancient kingdom of Northumbria ran from the Humber up to Edinburgh so perhaps it got lost amongst that.’ A braver man than many, Mark jokes that the team were ready for a quick getaway should they succeed in the competition. ‘We had our running shoes with us just in case!’
But how different can one haggis really be from the next? Significantly, it turns out, and for Mark the secret is in the unique blend of spices used. ‘Haggis differs wherever you go,’ he says. ‘But essentially it’s made from offal (heart, liver, and lungs), and it’s fed with oatmeal and stock.’ Cooked low and slow for hours, producing haggis is a labour of love. Though Mark won’t reveal their full recipe, he does tell us a few key ingredients. ‘I can tell you white pepper is a key ingredient for us because a good haggis should have a bit of a peppery kick for me – slightly hot and spicy,’ he explains. ‘We’ve got a little bit of coriander in there, mace and a little bit of nutmeg.’
Although fiercely competitive, the strong community spirit between the butchers is obvious throughout the episode. ‘There’s some great butchers up in Scotland and I’ve got some great friends up there,’ says Mark, who travelled to meet with fellow competitors and get some tips for the competition, including a retired butcher friend with a fantastic recipe. ‘There’s a secret ingredient that I haven’t mentioned yet that he shared with us, and we did add it to the Northumbrian haggis.’
‘We’ve got a history that we’re really proud of, but we pride ourselves on innovation just as every generation of the Turnbull family that went before us did also'
Though they did not qualify for the ‘made with haggis’ category which was only available to Scottish butchers, Mark is sure they would have made an impression there too. ‘The butchery team we’ve got is one of the best in the country, and the ‘made with haggis’ products they do are unbelievable, from the sausages to the burgers to the Wellingtons and Balmorals – it’s just amazing.’
At its heart, the competition is about preserving heritage and celebrating innovation – just like Turnbull’s. ‘We’ve got a history that we’re really proud of, but we pride ourselves on innovation just as every generation of the Turnbull family that went before us did also,’ he says. ‘I guess that’s why we’re still here.’
Nothing went unnoticed by the judges, from the taste to the shape and even down to whether the haggis had a natural or artificial encasing. Though they missed out on the top spot this year, Mark and the family remain undeterred and are working on the recipe for their next attempt at the title in 2027, confident in their Northumbrian recipe. ’I think we’ve got a beautiful county. In terms of farmland, we’re right on the coast and we’ve got mineral-rich lands so our farmers are able to produce some fantastic food. I think it’s just a great time to be involved in the food and drink sector in Northumberland. We should be very proud of what we’ve got.’
