We Spend a Weekend at Scotland's New Must-Visit Hotel
In a world where hotels often shout for attention, The Leddie speaks in soft Scottish tones: heritage without heaviness, luxury without affectation, and hospitality that feels intuitive
Having opened its doors last July (in what was formerly the Ducks Inn), this 17th-century building has been thoughtfully reimagined to feel like a true home-away-from-home… albeit tidied up and turned more aspirational. At check-in, we are shown the restaurant, bar, and lounge, where deep buttoned leather chairs beckon around the fireplace and the well-thumbed books and local maps help guide your itinerary. From the get-go, service is polite yet personal, polished but not precious.
There are 27 rooms to choose from; most are housed in the inn itself, but ours is a self-contained Cottage Suite, a stone’s throw from the entrance. We have two Golden Retrievers in tow, and both agree it’s some of the most four-legged friendly accommodation we’ve come across, with a canine welcome kit on arrival (think plush dog beds, treats, towels, and tennis balls for beach jaunts).
Fret not, for human guests fare equally well. The Cottage Suite boasts a sumptuous living space for two, with a sprawling superking, dressing area, and ensuite bathroom. Whether you’re passing through or making a long weekend of it, there are plenty of creature comforts – including a Nespresso machine, L’Occitane toiletries, and fluffy bathrobes to ensure a relaxing stay. Interiors lean into the locale, with a softened palette of mossy greens, warm russet, and tartan touches throughout.
After dusting off the day in the rainfall shower, it’s time for dinner. Dining is offered all day, and flows through the relaxed bar, restaurant, lounge (with board games by the fire), and a sunlit south-facing garden. It’s clear that evenings here are rich with the rhythm of village life: golfers stopping by after a round, locals sinking pints of the house-brewed lager, and travellers from further afield sampling their first wee dram on Scottish soil.
As for the food, The Leddie’s menu reads like an ode to Scottish provenance; it’s quietly ambitious, but approachable. A dish of bright Yorkshire rhubarb, Parma ham, creamy burrata and toasted walnuts signals the start of spring, while the cured West Coast sea trout, served with lemon crème fraîche, blood orange segments and pickled fennel strikes the perfect salty-sweet balance.
Mains showcase the comforts of the region: flaky haddock in feather-light batter with crisp, beef-dripping chips arrives, alongside a homemade chicken, bacon and leek pie – so delicious it quickly silences the table (and warrants eager begging from our four-legged friends who, until this moment, had been silently snoozing under the leather banquette seats). There’s always room for dessert, so in true ‘first night of holiday’ fashion, we share sticky toffee pudding with lashings of sauce, and vanilla ice cream for good measure. These are plates that understand what people want to eat after a bracing coastal walk or 18 holes – and they deliver, generously.
The next morning, we linger over the morning’s papers and freshly-brewed coffee while we make a plan – in the loosest sense – for the day. The Leddie’s location is a real draw, ideally placed at the threshold of Aberlady Bay Nature Reserve and amid East Lothian’s famed Golf Coast, there are more than 20 courses nearby (including Gullane, Craigielaw and Muirfield) and the coastal trail of the John Muir Way is practically on the doorstep. Staff are happy to organise tee-times, proffer valuable local advice for the best beach rambles, or call a taxi to explore the sweeping Georgian crescents of Edinburgh, just 15 miles west.
Here, you will eat well, drink better, and sleep deeply. In a world where hotels often shout for attention, The Leddie speaks in soft Scottish tones: heritage without heaviness, luxury without affectation, and hospitality that feels intuitive. Children, dogs, golfers and solo explorers are all welcomed with equal warmth. If hospitality is the art of making strangers into friends, then The Leddie nails it with effortless charm. Needless to say, we’re already planning our return.
