What We Thought of Cantina in Heaton
Ahead of the restaurant's first birthday, we head to Cantina for a taste of contemporary Mexico
Crossing the threshold for the first time, I’m surprised by how compact the space is, divided into a small dining area at the front of the restaurant and a bar area to the rear. The large glass front lets in the late afternoon sun and the decor has been kept simple – earthy tones, soft lighting and colourful art on the walls.
We’re seated in the window and our drinks arrive quickly – a spicy margarita for my friend and a refreshing hibiscus soft option for myself. The cocktail menu is streamlined but far from an afterthought, and has a good balance of sweet and savoury influences.
We nibble on totopos and salsas while we look through the menu, and I’m distracted by how moreish they are. There are three salsas to choose from: the salsa cruda is a fresh green option, and the salsa tatemada is a pleasantly smoky creation with morita chillies. My favourite is the salsa macha, a blend of sunflower seeds and chilli oil.
The menu is split between smaller plates and tacos. To share, we opt for the tempura cauliflower with sunflower seed chiltomate and more of my favourite salsa macha, as well as grilled guajillo and miso corn with habanero and shallot butter. It’s worth admitting now that I am usually a wimp when it comes to spice, but everything we enjoy is made with a clear respect for the produce and an understanding of how to perfectly balance flavour and heat.
On the recommendation of our server, we also get the tomato and smoked celeriac which turns out to be our star dish of the evening – the smokiness of the celeriac paired with the rich sesame mole rojo is addictive.
We’re left to graze on what remains of our small plates as the tacos arrive. We’ve both chosen a baja taco, a fresh and zingy option with the traditional fish swapped for beer-battered banana blossom. I’m a fiend for mushrooms so I also get the suadero taco, filled with confit shiitake and oyster mushrooms. My friend opts for the asada – a delicious blend of grilled quinoa tempeh, tatemada, and pickled red cabbage. Cantina does not overtly advertise itself as plant-based, so the veg-forward menu may come as a surprise to some, but we don’t find ourselves going without. Portions are generous, everything is expertly crafted and simple ingredients which may otherwise be overlooked are elevated to new heights.
When we first spoke to Mark and James after their opening last year, they told us that Cantina had already earned itself a clutch of regulars, and it’s obvious why. Service is friendly and relaxed, and the close quarters of the space add to the intimate vibe, rather than feeling crowded.
We’re talked into splitting something sweet to finish and I’m pleased to find that the dessert menu is simple yet considered. A thick chocolate mousse with masa crumb, sea salt and caramel is the perfect ending to our visit.
107 Heaton Park Road, Newcastle NE6 5NR
cantinancl.com
Highlight:
We’re obsessed with the freshness of the tomato and smoked celeriac.
What We Wish We’d Tried:
The hispi taco sounded amazing, blending charred cabbage, toasted sunflower seeds and pinto beans.
Our Take Away:
Cantina has become another Heaton staple, easily flowing from afternoon tipples to light bites and evening feasting with friends.
