Spend the Perfect Weekend in Bamburgh, Seahouses, Embleton and Craster
Here's what not to miss
What to See and Do
Iconic Bamburgh has pubs and bistros, a huge sandy beach and, of course, the ever-present backdrop of its towering castle. It’s no wonder this picturesque village is draws visitors year-round. Just to the north, the tranquil Budle Bay is a relatively hidden gem, but greatly appreciated by bird watchers and kite surfers, while heading south you’ll find Seahouses. This bustling resort is the place to go for seaside nostalgia, with penny arcades, boat trips from the harbour and plenty of proper fish ’n’ chip shops.
Just a little further on and you’ll find Beadnell and a sweeping sandy bay that is a paradise for watersports enthusiasts, and the only west-facing harbour on the North East coast. Over the headland to the south is the tiny fishing village of Low Newton, and from here the next stop is Embleton, a small village within walking distance of the dramatic ruins of Dunstanburgh Castle and the vast expanse of Embleton Bay skirted by Dunstanburgh Castle Golf Course. Venture beyond the castle and you’ll find Craster, famous for its kippers, but also a great base from which to explore more stunning walking routes along the coast.
Stroll through the dunes to Bamburgh beach before heading into Bamburgh Castle which is a must here, as is a trip to the village’s Grace Darling Museum, and the pretty church and churchyard where she is buried. Keen golfers should definitely check out Bamburgh’s short but challenging course, and if you want to avoid the crowds, drop down to the beach here and walk north towards Budle Bay for spectacular views of Holy Island in the distance.
It’s a relatively easy hour’s walk south to Seahouses which is more your traditional seaside village and where the amusement arcade and crazy golf are bound to keep kids happy. A trip to the Farne Islands, leaving from Seahouses harbour, is also a must. Home to one of the most exciting and diverse seabird colonies in the UK (including huge numbers of puffins), as well as colonies of seals don’t miss the opportunity to see amazing wildlife, which this year (fingers crossed) might again include a pod of visiting orcas. The 28 islands are managed by the National Trust (although a number of them are submerged each high tide) and various itineraries are available depending on the time of year and how much time you have. There’s even a sunset cruise for the chance to see seals basking in the evening sunlight or a spectacular sunset behind Bamburgh Castle. A few nice independent shops line the Main Street, the Farne Gift Shop is a real treasure trove of holiday trinkets, and tucked away behind the harbour is the long-established Swallow Fish selling locally-caught seafood straight from the boats.
Beadnell beach is a huge stretch of sand backed by high dunes in places, and from here, the walk around the bay is spectacular. If you do decide to set off on foot, past the headland and across the bay, you’ll hit the white-washed village of Low Newton and the popular 3, a great stop-off en-route before rounding the bay towards Embleton, with Dunstanburgh Castle looming ever-larger on the horizon. The ruins of the 14th century castle itself are spectacular – as are the views out to sea from its lofty position on the headland – and you can reach it easily on foot from Embleton or Craster.
Between the beach and the village of Embleton, Dunstanburgh Castle Golf Course is a traditional links course which lines the bay, and up in the the village there are a couple of pubs and the hugely popular, family-run Village Farm Shop where you can pick up a paper and delicious local and homemade produce to take to the beach. Just outside Embleton village, on the road south to Craster, Eleanor’s Byre is a unique treasure-trove of high-quality homewares, gifts and quirky finds.
Head into Craster and you’ll soon recognise the tang of the famous ‘Craster kippers’. Pop into the shop at L Robson & Son and you can often see them being smoked on-site. One last trek south along the cliff top of Cullernose Point and you’ll pass the famous Howick Bathing House before stumbling into the secluded cove at Rumbling Kern. Once you’ve made your way back, rest up with a well-deserved pint and views of Craster harbour and the castle beyond from The Jolly Fisherman’ beer garden.
Where to Eat
There’s plenty of choice in Bamburgh where the Lord Crewe sets the bar for the handful of excellent hotels-cum-pubs, but they’re all worth exploring. Book ahead to guarantee a table at The Potted Lobster – a great bistro specialising in local seafood. Bringing the dog? Make sure to request a table in the dog-friendly area, or if you are lucky grab one of the few tables outside. Local butcher, R Carter & Son are renowned for their sausages and they cure and smoke their bacon onsite (make sure you try one of their much-lauded pies whilst you’re here), and the café in the Walled Garden serves fresh, local food from breakfast through lunch, both indoors and out on the part-covered terrace overlooking the adventure playground.
In Seahouses pick up an ice cream from Coxons, fish and chips at Lewis’, or head to the Black Swan Inn for a seat in their courtyard, but for a cold pint with views over the harbour, head to The Olde Ship Inn.
Just off Beadnell beach, a tent-like structure is home to The Landing, a beach bar and restaurant where you can enjoy everything from a chilled Aperol on the deck to fresh seafood, and there’s live music on Sunday afternoons, or try the popular Salt Water Café in the village for hearty, home-cooked food.
In High Newton, The Joiners Arms is a popular, family-friendly pub with good food, and in Low Newton, The Ship Inn has its own microbrewery. Always popular, be prepared to queue here for its famous sandwiches and seafood before taking a seat outside on the green beside the sea. Chips and hot chocolate at Dunstanburgh Golf Club will keep the kids refuelled before you reach Craster and The Jolly Fisherman, with its stunning sea views, home-cooked dishes and well-kept ales.
Where To Stay
In Bamburgh, the Grade II-listed Lord Crewe has seven luxurious, individually-designed bedrooms, and the restaurant is very good here too. Above the Middle Inn, The Apartment is a luxurious self-catering option sleeping four. Also in the village, the family- and dog-friendly Victoria Hotel has 38 bedrooms and a welcoming bar and popular restaurant. Waterford is a modern, New England-style house opposite the dunes, sleeping seven, with private parking and an enclosed back garden safe for children and dogs. Just a mile outside the village on the road to Budle Bay, Budle Hall is a luxury, family-run B&B with four beautiful rooms, self-catering lodges and seaside camping.
In Seahouses, the dog-friendly Bamburgh Castle Inn overlooks the busy harbour and has a great beer garden with views across to the Farnes. Just down the coast, Beadnell Towers is another great option, with a number of dog-friendly rooms and a dog-friendly bar. In High Newton, try the Garden Rooms on Newton Hall’s Estate and enjoy your own private garden, hot tub and fire pit (the beach at Low Newton is just a 10-minute walk away). A few miles south in Craster, Middlerigg sits above the harbour. Sleeping six, it has idyllic views from its terrace to Dunstanburgh Castle in the distance.
