A Gourmet's Guide to Lyon
Hop across to the continent on your next breakaway and discover what's cooking
Arguably the culinary heart of France, Lyon is blanketed across two hills and is dotted with breathtaking architecture like the Basilica Notre-Dame of Fourvière and Fourvière’s Roman amphitheatres. Traditional Lyonnaise cuisine dates back centuries and is, in a word, rich, characterised by charcuterie, offal and plenty of wine. Many attribute the city’s flourishing ‘bouchons’ to the Mothers of Lyon (Mères Lyonnaises), female chefs who found success locally in the 18th, 19th and 20th centuries – most notably Eugénie Brazier who earned six Michelin stars in total across her two restaurants, and was the first in the world to do so.
Where to Stay
Hotel De l’Abbaye
Carefully refurbished, this historic address sits on the doorstep of the stunning Basilica St Martin d’Ainay and is a stone’s throw from Europe’s largest square, Place Bellecour. The boutique space offers 21 rooms which blend modern comforts with retro vibes. Check out L’Artichaut on the first floor, a Michelin-recommended restaurant serving simple, contemporary dishes in a bistro-style space.
L’Ermitage Hôtel
On a hilltop a short distance outside the city, this is an ideal retreat for those wanting to enjoy all the charm of Lyon without needing to stay in amongst the action. The views are unbelievable, and the contemporary interiors are designed to help you slow down and switch off from the outside world. Enjoy a dip in the outdoor pool, or lights bites and drinks on the terrace.
OKKO Hotels Lyon
The rooms in this hotel are admittedly small, but the hotel as a whole is incredibly stylish, blending hi-tech touches, urban influences and bright pops of colour. Open 24 hours, The Club is at its heart, an exclusive place with a dining room, co-working area, and a shop packed with local goodies. An aperitivo is also offered to guests in The Club every evening – think local charcuterie and tapenade.
Where to Eat
La Virée
Open for less than two years, La Virée may be one of Lyon’s newest bistros (and a new addition to the Michelin Guide) but its interiors are comfortingly old school. Simple laminate-topped tables and terrazzo flooring give the space a 1970s vibe. Dishes are straightforward, modern, and designed for sharing. Front of house Mathias Béguin is particularly fond of wine so expect some expertly-selected bottles.
Daniel et Denise
Run by MOF-awarded chef Joseph Viola, take your pick from three respected, traditional Lyonnaise restaurants dotted across the city. The newest addition is at Croix-Rousse and offers the same hearty dishes the other two are loved for. The intricate techniques of classic Lyonnaise cooking are on full display in the restaurants, with options like pork pies of sweetbread and foie gras, and calf’s head. Go back to where it all began at the original location inside the Lyon-Part-Dieu train station.
L’Atelier des Augustins
This restaurant, led by chef Nicolas Guilloton, is a departure from the classic eateries of Lyon and is unapologetically modern. The Michelin-starred space is moody and dark, with curved wooden furnishings and a clear view into the kitchen. Expect the unexpected from the surprise seasonal tasting menu, which can be enjoyed over two or three courses at lunch time, or across four or six courses in the evening.
