Our Insider Guide to a Weekend in Venice
Go in search of romance....
A car-free city, the ancient canals (there are more than 150 in total) act as roads, transporting people and goods through Venice. Hop on and off the vaporettos which travel along the larger canals like buses, but the only way to really enjoy the historic backstreet waterways is by private gondola. The Grand Canal is Venice’s most famous, lined with centuries-old buildings, many of which were home to the many rich and noble families who made their fortune in the lucrative trade between Europe and the East. Of the 483 bridges in Venice, the iconic 16th century Rialto Bridge is one of only four over the Grand Canal – lined with shops, it connects the San Marco and San Polo districts. The oldest stone bridge in Venice is the beautiful Ponte della Paglia (Straw Bridge), built in 1170, which crosses the Rio di Palazzo next to the Doge’s Palace, and is usually full of tourists thanks to its excellent view of the Ponte dei Sospiri (Bridge of Sighs).
On dry land don’t miss the Doge’s Palace, home to famous artworks by Venetian artist Tintoretto amongst others. The Scuola Grande di San Rocco is one of the most lavish buildings in the city, home to an impressive collection of paintings, Murano glass chandeliers, decorative arts and Carnevale frescoes. For modern art the Peggy Guggenheim Collection has pieces from Picasso and Pollock. There are countless churches to be found in the city, important both for their architectural merits and the artistic treasures they contain. The Basilica of Santa Maria della Salute with its imposing dome stands at the entrance to the Grand Canal, and the famous Basilica of San Marco, the city’s cathedral, lies at the eastern end of St Mark’s Square.
Where to Eat
Unsurprisingly seafood tends to dominate here but the best advice is to seek out smaller osterias and bars off the main tourist drag (of which there are many) where the locals enjoy cicchetti, the Venetian equivalent of tapas, accompanied by ombre (a small glass of wine) or sit and enjoy a spritz, the local aperitif, as you watch the world go by. Stop by Rosa Salva for coffee and one of their famous pastries, at Il Mercante for cocktails, Sullaluna for lunch on the canal-side terrace, and for seafood join the locals at Osteria Mocenigo or Trattoria Antiche Carampane.
Where to Stay
You are here for romance so spoil yourselves at the five-star Venice Venice Hotel in the Grand Canal’s oldest palazzo, the Cà da Mosto, and the only one to retain its original Byzantine façade. All 43 rooms are dedicated to the works of various artists, and the hotel’s restaurant spills out onto the the terrace. The famous Gritti Palace is a hotel-cum-museum and the Gritti Terrace has to be the best place for breakfast in the city. With just 24 bedrooms, the Aman Venice is where you can sleep under frescoes (the Clooneys did) and sip spritzes on the canal-side terrace.
