How to Spend the Perfect Day in Sandsend, Whitby and Robin Hood's Bay
Here's the ultimate guide to these three coastal gems
While each has its own distinct personality, together this dynamic trio offer a peek at the darker corners of the coast’s history and mythology (think smugglers, vampires and ghosts). The small fishing village of Sandsend, with its wide, sandy beach, has a handful of beachside cafés, restaurants and shops, whilst Whitby is known for the Gothic ruins of the 13th century abbey (which dominate the headland and inspired Bram Stoker’s Dracula) and a 20-foot whalebone arch, separated by the River Eske estuary. In between the two are rows upon rows of independent shops, bars, restaurants, visitor attractions and museums. To the south of Whitby is historic Robin Hood’s Bay where tiny cottages tumble down the steep hill towards the sea. Proud of its fishing heritage, Robin Hood’s Bay was also a favoured smuggler’s haunt in the 1700s.
What to See and Do
If you’re starting in Sandsend, the sandy beach should be your first port of call. The vast, family-friendly expanse is great for swimming and is popular with paddle boarders too. You can easily walk from Sandsend to Whitby where you’ll want to spend the best part of a day to make the most of the sights in this busy seaside town. Top of the must-see list is obviously Whitby Abbey (whether you choose to park up at the abbey itself, or climb the 199 steps), but don’t forget about Whitby Museum in Pannett Park – it’s not only a lovely lunchtime picnic spot but with more than 200 years of collecting, there’s plenty of history to explore here. A great way to discover this part of the coast is to take advantage of Whitby’s many boat trips – we love the 30-minute Captain Cook Experience, a short ride out to sea on an authentic replica of HMS Endeavour, as you listen to the many tales of this iconic explorer. Every year during late summer and autumn vast shoals of herring migrate to the inshore waters off the Yorkshire coast to spawn. The herring, in turn, attract cetaceans, sharks, birds and seals to feed and Bryan Clarkson (aka the Whale Whisperer) runs trips to see porpoise, white beaked and bottle nosed dolphins, minke, humpback, sei and fin whales, as well as thousands of seals, until the end of October. When you’re back on dry land, join ‘Dr Crank’ on a fascinating walk to learn more about the history of Whitby, Dracula and the town’s many ghosts. It’s also worth popping into some of the many independent shops in the town including the famous W Hamond, the original Whitby jet shop, dating back to 1860 and made popular by the Victorians. For fun for the whole family head to the amusements and pirate-themed adventure golf, or check out The Whitby Sculpture Trail with nine striking sculptures by local artist Emma Stothard all dotted along the seafront. There’s always something going on in Whitby but Whitby’s annual regatta in August is a celebration of the town’s maritime roots with something for all the family to enjoy.
Just to the south of Whitby, Saltwick Bay is famous for the shipwreck of the Admiral Von Tromp which rests in the shadow of Black Nab, the brooding rocky outcrop which guards the bay. Round off the weekend with a spot of fossil-hunting, beach-combing and rock-pooling in Robin Hood’s Bay. The volunteer-run Robin Hood’s Bay Museum in Lower Bay gives a fascinating insight into life in the bay and the secrets behind this part of the coast. The tightly-packed cottages tumble down to the sea and it’s worth exploring some of the the tiny cobbled lanes to understand what life was like when this was a busy fishing village. Climb the steep hill out of the village to Old St Stephen’s church, built in 1822 and crammed with local history, where you’ll find memorials to shipwreck victims and a model of SS Pretoria.
Where to Eat
In Sandsend, head to Sandside, the café-in-a-cabin, a firm favourite for families, surfers and dog-walkers enjoying a day on the beach. Just off Sandsend beach, soak up the sun at Fish Cottage, a seafood restaurant and takeaway serving locally-caught seafood (everything from tacos to regular fish and chips) or pick up a takeaway to enjoy on the sand. If you prefer wining and dining, try the award-winning two-AA Rosette restaurant at Estbek House (there’s an impressive wine list here too), or the laid back Brasserie at Saltmoore serving delicious locally-sourced dishes (there’s also a new pizzeria at Saltmoore’s Beach House, serving seriously good-quality pizzas on slow-fermented sourdough bases). Nothing really says a trip to the seaside like fish and chips, and Whitby’s Magpie Café is one of the most famous in the area (but prepare for a queue). Time for dinner? Trenchers is an acclaimed destination for fabulous fish and chips, or check out the brasserie (and cocktail) menu at The Moon & Sixpence which overlooks the harbour. The new harbour-side Pescado Lounge and Bar is where to head for everything from tapas to Thai curry. Robin Hood’s Bay has several places to try, from the elegant neighbourhood Brambles Bistro to pizza at the Smugglers Ale House. Pick up a sandwich and coffee at The Galley on Quarterdeck on your way to the beach, or as you climb up out of the bay, pop into the Fish Box at the top of the hill for great fish and chips.
Where to Stay
In Sandsend, Saltmoore’s 19th century estate has been completely reimagined. Redefining luxury, it’s a wellness-led sanctuary with a great spa, elegant brasserie, a new pizzeria and a choice of rooms and suites. In Whitby, the award-winning Riviera Guesthouse has 15 comfortable ensuite bedrooms. With one of the best views in Whitby – and once a favourite of Lewis Carroll – La Rosa Hotel’s rooms have been inspired by the town’s rich heritage. If you like seafood, check into one of The Marine’s four stylish rooms, but if self-catering is more your style, we love Bird’s Eye View which welcomes up to 10 guests and has views of the sea and both of Whitby’s piers, and the recently opened Poppy Cottage on the old cobbled Church Street at the bottom of the 199 steps. The Hotel Victoria overlooking Robin Hood’s Bay has great coastal views and a large garden for al fresco dining, and there are plenty of self-catering cottages in the bay, including Arthur’s Cottage. Originally a whaler’s cottage, more recently it was home to an artist, Arthur, who is fondly remembered by local folk. Beautifully renovated, is full of character and promises a wonderful garden with views out to sea.
