Wander Wensleydale with Matthew Wolfenden and Roxy Shahidi
Living North's columnists, actors Matthew Wolfenden and Roxy Shahidi (best known for their roles David and Leyla on Emmerdale), are exploring Yorkshire one walk at a time
Bolton Castle, built in the late 14th century, looms dramatically over the dale and is best known for holding Mary, Queen of Scots captive for six months in 1568. More recently, it’s had a small-screen revival, appearing in the Channel 5 drama Anne Boleyn. From the castle, the route ambles east through classic Wensleydale countryside; at its very best in spring, when the meadows glow fresh green, lambs wobble about finding their feet, and the river runs fast and loud after winter rains. This stunning walk takes you from the brooding towers of Bolton Castle to the thundering cascades of Aysgarth Falls, a series of wide, stepped waterfalls made famous by Robin Hood: Prince of Thieves. A walk that feels properly Yorkshire in all the best ways.
Why Bolton Castle to Aysgarth Falls?
Roxy: ‘This one just feels like spring, doesn’t it? Blossom, lambs, rushing water…’
Matt: ‘Yeah, and it’s gentle. No lung-busting, thigh aching climbs, just steady wandering and loads to look at.’
Roxy: ‘Plus, it starts with a castle and ends with waterfalls. That’s a strong opening and a strong finish…'
Matt: ‘Also important to note: six miles is exactly the right distance when there’s a warm pub waiting at the end.’
Roxy: 'I was getting to that!’
Let’s walk…
We parked up near Bolton Castle, taking a moment to admire its imposing stone walls rising straight out of the hillside – one of those places that instantly transports you back a few centuries. After a quick nose around we set off, Cooper and Iggy trotting ahead, noses down and tails up.
From there, the path drifts away from the castle and out into open countryside, threading through wide fields divided by dry stone walls. Spring was well and truly showing off: blossom brightened the hedgerows, the grass impossibly green, and lambs skittered about like they’d just discovered legs for the first time.
Before long, the route drops down to meet the River Ure, which became our companion for much of the walk; running fast and full, its surface flashing silver in the sunlight. The path here is calm and easy, following the river’s curves as it rushes steadily east. This riverside section is a real highlight – flat, peaceful, and accompanied by the constant sound of water moving with purpose. We got distracted by a particularly good stone-skimming spot, and Cooper developed a strong personal interest in a certain cheeky squirrel.
The closer we got to Aysgarth, the louder the river became; a steady roar building with every step. Then suddenly, there they were. The Aysgarth Falls. Rather than a single drop, the falls stretch right across the river in a series of broad limestone steps, the water surging with real force and sending spray into the air. Bold, noisy, and completely mesmerising.
We stood for a while watching the water thunder over the falls, mist hanging in the air and other walkers dotted along the viewing points, all doing the same thing: stopping, staring, and taking far too many photos!
From the main viewing area at Aysgarth Falls, we picked up the clearly signposted footpath towards Carperby. This final section of the walk is nice and gentle, the path is generally well maintained and mostly level, though our sturdy footwear proved very necessary as recent rain had left several impressively muddy sections.
As the roar of the falls faded, we followed the River Ure closely, keeping it on our right-hand side. The walking here feels calm and unhurried, accompanied by birdsong and that constant steady rush of water. We spotted kingfishers flashing low across the river and dippers bobbing along the rocks – it’s a rewarding stretch for wildlife if you take your time.
The path alternates between grassy tracks and firmer earth, occasionally narrowing as it threads between the riverbank and low stone walls. Several small wooden footbridges and kissing gates break up the route, all clearly marked and easy to navigate. In places, the river slows and widens, forming calm pools that mirror the surrounding trees. Perfect spots for us to pause and take it all in, and for Iggy and Cooper to take a cooling dip.
As Carperby approaches, the path gently pulls away from the river and rises slightly through open pasture, where sheep graze. Before long, the village comes into view, its stone cottages clustered neatly along the road, and the walk ends as you emerge into Carperby itself, and crucially, The Wheatsheaf Inn.
And so, with muddy boots off, and dogs dried off and settled, we sank into proper pub chairs with the deep satisfaction only a good walk delivers. Drinks were ordered, and Matt went all-in with an accompanying cheese board featuring, of course, a big slab of Wensleydale…
Six miles, cracking scenery, layers of history, and a cosy pub at the end. Honestly, what more do you want?
