We Discover the Ultimate Autumn Escape in the Alps
In the Austrian Alps, Naturhotel Forsthofgut is the perfect destination for an autumn breakaway
What I’m trying to say is that as we step onto the balcony of our suite at Naturhotel Forsthofgut and take in the view over the hotel grounds – an artful jumble of timber-clad cabins, flower-laden balconies, lakes, pools and manicured lawns surrounded by gently waving hydrangeas – to the ring of mountains which seem to encircle this place, the effect really is like something out of a fairytale.
We’ve already been in Austria for a few days before making our way to Leogang, in Salzburgerland, and having spent them mostly hiking up and down mountains we’re ready for some R&R. A shuttle arranged by the hotel meets us promptly at Leogang’s tiny train station, and a five-minute drive sees us deposited safely at Forsthofgut. Raised reflecting pools and abundant flowers line the path to the glass doors, which glide open to reveal the airy lobby and reception area, a large bar and several interconnected lounge areas.
We take a seat in the comfortable lounge to examine our welcome pack. It details everything you could get involved in here, and we soon see that this is much more than your average spa hotel. By all means float all day in a heated pool at the waldSPA if you like, but there’s also a vast programme of activities and classes to get involved in, the majority of them included with your stay. Today alone there’s a guided hike we could join, a HIIT class in one of the studios, a holistic flexibility class in the grounds, and aromatic steam sessions in the various saunas. You can arrange extras like horse riding at the hotel’s onsite stables, hire e-bikes from the hotel’s garage, hit the gym (fully equipped with state-of-the-art equipment), do yoga in the forest, or take a reformer Pilates class. If this sounds rather hard to keep track of, we’re advised to download the My Forsthofgut app, which contains all the info you need and your own personal calendar.
All guests also receive a free pass for the local gondola so you can explore the mountains the easy way (gondola up, walk down) or the really easy way (gondola both ways). We’ve arrived mid-morning, so before we head to our room we opt for the first option, picking up a local hiking map from reception and finding that the Asitzbahn lift which connects this end of the village to the mountain is just a couple of minutes’ stroll from the hotel. Despite the warmth of the sunny day in the valley, at the top (1,762 metres) there’s a real chill in the air. We hurry around to take in the views before hopping back in the gondola to the middle station, where the temperature is more pleasant and there’s an art trail to explore, winding up the mountainside and around a sparkling blue lake.
It takes us a couple of hours to follow the trail back down to the village. In winter, a ski run passes right through our hotel’s grounds, and we’re pleased when we pop out of the cool forest into the sunshine and find ourselves on the edge of the hotel lawns.
From here we have a good overview of the hotel itself, with older, more traditional Austrian buildings (the site dates from 1617) adjoining more contemporary, timber ones. It’s a huge area, with a lake house, an adults-only spa and gym building and standalone saunas, in addition to what might be seen as the ‘main’ buildings. An earlier tour allowed us to get our bearings, taking in everything from the large indoor pool and family area (complete with slide) to the various restaurants, bar, bike garage, wine cellar, treatment rooms, boutique and much more besides. All of this can be accessed either through the buildings, by a walk through the grounds, or via airy underground corridors (particularly useful in the winter we’re sure). We’re grateful that each junction we come to is handily signposted to keep us heading in the right direction.
Our suite is decked in pale hues and natural textures, lined in light wood panels. The marble bathroom has two sinks and a walk-in rainfall shower, and there’s a free-standing bath, vast bed, desk, seating area and the aforementioned balcony – from which we can see other guests dipping into the natural swimming lake, ducking into the saunas, strolling the grounds, enjoying drinks on the terrace, or just lazing in the heated pools.
The room is also packed with helpful little extras so you can really make the most of your stay – think a yoga mat, small weights, a backpack for hiking, and a handy spa bag with robes and slippers.
Having resisted the draw of the waldSPA for long enough, we spend an hour before dinner exploring the various pools and relaxation areas. In the adults-only spa building we have the 25-metre infinity pool (and the panoramic views) to ourselves. Perhaps people are put off by the fact it’s only heated to 30 degrees, but it feels appropriately refreshing, and afterwards we make our way through the tunnel to the lake house. It’s a little too cool for us to brave the bathing lake, instead heading to the outdoor pool (a balmy 33 degrees) where the infinity edge seems to blend into the lake itself, before we head to the 42-degree Japanese-inspired Onsen pool to take in the aromatic vapours.
Having changed for dinner and checked the evening’s plans in the app, we go down to the bar a little early to join the hotel’s welcome drinks, and are greeted with sparkling wine, cocktails and canapés, as well as members of the hotel’s staff and the family who own it (the fifth generation to do so).
Heading through to the restaurant, we’re shown to a table which will be ours for our whole stay. Despite the size of the hotel, the dining spaces are split into several smaller rooms (some of which are adults-only) giving an intimate feel to proceedings. Guests stay half board here, and each night there are three different five-course menus to choose from: one Alpine-Mediterranean inspired, one hyper-local (made using produce from within 50 kilometres of the hotel), and one vegan.
All begin with a visit to the hotel’s salad buffet and end with cheese, with the other courses served to your table, so having ordered drinks from our efficient and welcoming waitress we head to the hotel’s genussmarkt (or ‘delicacies market’) to get some salad.
Having skied here a lot we’re fairly familiar with Austrian hotel salad buffets, and they’re always good, but Forsthofgut’s is in a different league. A whole room is dedicated to it, with a bakery area lined with crates of bread, oceans of fresh salads, marinated vegetables, dressings and toppings like crispy bacon and sunflower seeds. Forsthofgut are rightly proud of their food offering, sourcing as much as possible as locally as possible, working with organic vegetable farmers, local butchers and bakers.
Post salad, we’ve chosen to mix and match from the various menus, starting with a tuna niçoise with perfectly seared red tuna, followed by chicken bouillon with herb pancake strips (a real Austrian classic) served at the table. My partner has ordered sea bass for his main course, while I dig into rich braised beef cheek with creamy potatoes and fresh vegetables. This is followed by delicate honey panna cotta with an almond Florentine and rosemary ice cream, before we finally reach the cheese course, for which we return to the buffet area, choosing from around 20 perfectly presented cheeses and all the accompaniments you could wish for.
After dinner, we settle into a candlelit table in the corner of the bar for a cocktail (or two), while a talented singer with a guitar takes requests from our fellow guests, even making an acoustic take on Pink Pony Club sound good.
After the most peaceful night’s sleep, we’re up early and heading for a morning class before exploring the grounds a little more. If you were travelling with children this place would be a dream: beyond the lake we discover the ‘Minigut’, a miniature farm-cum-petting zoo populated by mini pigs, donkeys, alpacas and dwarf sheep, with a brilliant play area, play barn and pond. Further on are the stables (we head in to say hi to the horses as they munch on fresh hay), riding arenas, tennis courts and a wild deer enclosure on the edge of the forest.
There are plenty of dishes to order from the kitchen at breakfast time (think omelettes or eggs royale), but the breakfast buffet is another stunner – a vast array of fruits, a whole area dedicated to cured meats and salamis, cheeses, yoghurts, cereals, granolas, breads, pastries, bacon, eggs, fresh juices and even sparkling wine, should you be so inclined.
As well as breakfast and dinner there’s a late-afternoon buffet here, meaning you could very nearly eat all day if you liked and it wouldn’t cost you a penny extra on your bill. However, the hotel is also home to three bookable à la carte restaurants: fine-dining Silva, traditional Austrian dishes at 1617, or sushi at Mizumi. After a morning spent exploring the valley and mountain via e-bike hired from the hotel’s garage, we decide lunch at Mizumi is in order. It’s in the lake house, so we cross the bridge into the building and take a seat by a window overlooking the water, grazing on spicy edamame beans, steamed pork dumplings and a fabulous platter of sushi and sashimi.
Another afternoon at the spa beckons, but while my partner explores the adults-only area (even braving one of the traditionally ‘textile-free’ saunas), I’ve got a treatment booked. The hotel has its own medi-spa, offering personalised diagnostics and treatments including cryotherapy and IHHT altitude training, but I’m playing it safe with a massage. The waldSpa meTIME massage is 50 minutes of bliss, starting when I choose which scented oil I’d prefer my therapist to use (I go for rosemary), and focusing exactly on the areas I highlighted in my pre-appointment consultation. Convincing myself to rise from the bed at the end is only made easier by the prospect of a dip in the Onsen pool.
At dinner that night we again mix and match between the various menus, today’s highlights being delicate homemade taglioni with prawns, courgettes and shellfish foam, and a main of corn-fed chicken on a rich carbonara risotto with wild broccoli and lemon. The cooking is once again exemplary, with service to match.
When we retreat to the bar post-dinner, unsure what to order from the extensive cocktail book, one of the expert bartenders comes up with the perfect suggestion for each of us. With our morning departure looming, we take the time to enjoy our last night at Forsthofgut, lingering in the bar. We may have to leave, but this is certainly the sort of place where you could stay forever – and, perhaps, live happily ever after.
