Why Foodies Need to Visit Hadrian's Hotel in Northumberland
Putting Hadrian's Hotel back at the heart of the local community, owner Jack Brown talks taking over the venue in Wall, adapting to pub life, and its new fine-dining restaurant Willow
‘We always wanted to do something a little bit bigger,’ he explains, and his, and his partner Alice’s, hopes for Hadrian’s were high. ‘Within 20 minutes of viewing it we could see the potential. For us it was very much about the fact that we could have three different elements. You’ve got the fine dining (which we specialised in with Nest and Hide), and then we have the pub element which is a little bit new to us in some regards. Having bedrooms on top was huge.’
The sympathetically refurbished building has plenty of natural light, exposed brick and rich wood furnishings. Fine-dining restaurant Willow is a smart contemporary space, and provides an elevated alternative to the already stellar pub offering. ‘We see Willow as an occasions restaurant. We’d like to think, as our reputation grows, that people will be coming to us for the full package. It’s been refurbished to a great standard, the service is brilliant and the quality that you get in Willow is the among the best in the North East,’ he says. Willow offers an elegant tasting menu informed by what is seasonal, fresh and local. Food is not an afterthought in the pub though, and you can expect elevated favourites from the menu, as well as a great variety of local drinks.
Ever the foodie, Jack lights up discussing what’s on the menu in the pub and Willow currently. ‘They’re both very seasonal,’ he explains, noting that in the pub, alongside staples like fish and chips, and steak, there are alternative options too. ‘At the moment we’ve got a lovely hake dish with a courgette purée, and Jersey royals with a nice shrimp butter sauce,’ he says. ‘Starters are bang in season too. We’ve got Isle of Wight tomatoes with a nice goats’ cheese curd, and fresh basil,’ he continues. ‘A very popular dish we’ve got at the moment is homemade hash browns with a nice gribiche and a grated Comté cheese.’
Willow’s offering is equally seasonal and the kitchen is helmed by talented chef Dan Nattrass. ‘At the moment we’ve got a lovely North Sea monkfish on the menu, we’ve got some beautiful venison which was shot down the road, and English strawberries,’ says Jack. ‘When you get to this time of year in the summer, the produce is just incredible,’ he continues, explaining that some of his produce comes from his own home garden. ‘Being able to just walk straight into my garden and find that is ideal.’ Alongside their food offering, Jack and the team are hoping to begin introducing special wine events and experiences in the coming months.
Giving a communal space back to local residents was important to the pair, and the response has reflected that. ‘The response has been amazing. At first it was a little bit overwhelming how nicely we were greeted, but you could see the outpouring of emotion,’ Jack explains. ‘It was a really surreal first few weeks of having that experience and seeing these people reconnecting. We’re already becoming part of the community. The village of Wall has welcomed us with open arms and I’ll be forever grateful for that.’
Jack and the team have settled into country pub life well, and on top of navigating Hadrian’s Hotel through its first months, Jack and Alice have also taken on The Northumberland Arms in Felton, a country pub with a devoted following. The connection, Jack tells us, was a personal one. ‘My partner Alice grew up in Felton, so it’s been her local for years. I’ve always admired the pub and when I started dating Alice we would go down there and it felt like it was my local.’ When the pair lived nearby for a short time, the pub did become Jack’s actual local, and he fell in love.
As with Hadrian’s, they quickly set about making the space as inviting and personal as possible. ‘It was something that we had to take a gamble on,’ he explains. When we speak, the conservatory has already been refurbished, and the restaurant space is next on the list, with the bedrooms planned for later in the year. ‘Everything has been about that personal touch. We want the personality of ourselves and the staff to shine through.’
By paying attention to the details and creating a strong foundation within the local community, Jack and the team are hoping to create a legacy for years to come. ‘I want to have longevity and I’d like to think in 20 or 25 years that it’s still there,’ he says. ‘It’s almost like a lifestyle. To do what we’re doing, you have to love it, and I do. I’m 20 years in now and however many years I have left in me, I wouldn’t do anything else.’