Find Out What we Thought of El Camino at Rockliffe Hall
Having kept a watchful eye on developments at Rockliffe Hall since James Close took up the role of Culinary Director, we happily head along to try out his latest offering
Taking a few minutes to explore our spacious suite (complete with dressing area, bathroom, seating area and a vast bed, plus views over the golf course), we waste no time in heading to the spa.
The Spa at Rockliffe Hall is well worth exploring, with a 20-metre pool, a 15-metre hydro-pool, and a thermal suite which includes drench showers, foot spas, a tepidarium, salt steam room (my personal favourite), a Roman sauna and hot tubs sunk into the outside deck. Today however we’re heading straight to the exclusive Spa Garden to make the most of the sunshine.
Floating in the thermal infinity pool, glass of fizz in hand, it feels almost like being on holiday (if you were to replace the manicured golf course with a beach, the effect would be complete). There are plenty of day beds, warm tiled loungers, and a glass-fronted sauna here too. By the time we head back to our room an hour later, we’re more than relaxed and seriously looking forward to dinner.
As former chef-patron of the two-Michelin star Raby Hunt, James Close is a big name on the North East food scene and while a new standalone restaurant is being developed in the grounds at Rockliffe Hall, he’s keeping busy with various exciting projects at the hotel. Last summer we were lucky enough to try TERRA (a pop-up which ended up being extended and has now morphed into the daytime offering Café TERRA) and this summer there’s also been a popular Tacos & Margaritas menu in the hotel bar (in collaboration with Shaun Hurrell, former chef-patron of the renowned Barrio Comida). In short, there’s plenty for foodies to enjoy here even before the new restaurant is up and running.
This time, we’re at Rockliffe to try El Camino, in which James promises a journey through Latin America. The tasting menu takes us from the Pacific coasts of Peru to the ancient asado rituals of Argentina – a real departure from last year’s offering in TERRA, which included lots of European dishes (although some of our fellow diners say this new direction is more in line with James’s Raby Hunt days).
Having taken our seats, we examine the menu and see that our first two courses are under the heading of ‘Japan Meets Peru’. These come with a ‘Tokyo 75’ cocktail – a Japanese-South American fusion based on the classic French 75, made with sake and vodka. Two snacks are served with it: the Japanese Yellowtail ceviche is super fresh tasting, with a zesty finish; while crispy seaweed gunkan is loaded with delicious Loch Duart salmon and finished with crispy shallots. These moreish mini works of art look almost as good as they taste.
Next, we’re in Chile for a take on ‘Lomo a lo Pobre’ – or poor man’s steak. There’s nothing poor about this version though: the rich Wagyu is served with a fried quail egg, shaved black truffle, rice and a Bordelaise-style sauce, alongside a glass of lightly-sparkling French sydre which cuts through the buttery flavours.
Our next course (Brazil) is served in individual iron cocottes. Removing the lid reveals a fragrant fish stew, packed with hearty chunks of halibut and red prawn, enrobed in a vibrant, silky sauce with slices of red chilli just begging to be spooned up.
Heading north, we’re presented with buttery squab pigeon with two Mexican ‘mother’ sauces. One includes white chocolate (this is reminiscent of a butter sauce), and another is made with dark chocolate. Each sauce, we’re told, has dozens of ingredients, and they’re rich enough to prove it. A soft round tortilla is the perfect thing for mopping up the dregs.
A nine-hour flight south, Argentina provides the inspiration for the next dish: a barbecued Herdwick lamb cutlet with lamb belly, padron peppers, chimichurri and pepper purée, along with a glass of Tuscan Chianti.
A palate cleanser of watermelon margarita sorbet is served in a glass dish with a chilli and lime rim – adding welcome zing to a refreshing dish – before, finally, we’re presented with a decadent chocolate taco with chilli and yuzu.
The menu here may have little respect for geography (jumping thousands of miles between courses, doubling back and even revisiting favourite countries) but the respect for the ingredients shines throughout – and I really would take a nine-hour flight to have a chance to eat it again. Luckily, we don’t have to go further than County Durham.
