Find Out What We Thought of a Viking Cruise in The Aegean
Living North cruise the Aegean in search of ancient Mediterranean treasures
When it comes to cruises there’s plenty of choice, not just in type and size of ship, but also in destination(s). So being more specific, we’re talking about a Viking Cruise. For many the whole concept of a cruise might not float their boat, but if you are wanting a relaxing holiday with a difference, which gives you a real opportunity to learn about different destinations without having to try hard at all, to see places you’ve often thought about visiting but couldn’t quite fit into any itinerary, along with an onboard experience which means your every need is taken care of, then that is what you can look forward to.
We are not cruise novices, but we were excited to join Viking’s Ancient Mediterranean Treasures, with an itinerary that promised stops in Istanbul, Troy, Ephesus, Rhodes, Crete and Athens. Claiming to ‘trace the origins of civilisation as you sail the Aegean Sea’, we didn’t need to be asked twice.
One of the joys of an adventure of this nature is in the pre-planning. That said, research is far from essential as you are guided by Viking who have worked tirelessly to seek out the best possible tours at each destination. So alongside considering your choice of cabin, it’s equally important to assess which of their tours you might wish to join at each stop. The various options are deliberately crafted to maximise every destination, its special features, history and culture.
We join the ship in one of the world’s great cities: Istanbul, where our Viking rep efficiently organises our transfer from the airport to the Viking Vesta, a 45-minute air conditioned drive across one of the world’s most extraordinary cities. With customs and boarding quickly completed it was time to take in the ship which was to be home for the week. All Viking Staterooms have verandas and ours currently had a view onto the mighty Bosphorus. The room is generous in size, with an ensuite and seating on the veranda to watch the world go by.
We decided to celebrate our arrival in one of the ship’s major gathering spots, the aptly named Explorers’ Lounge, where we find vast glass windows with breathtaking views across the city, deep leather armchairs and very willing staff just waiting to refill our glasses. Perfect!
There are several bars and restaurants spread through the ship. Some require booking, but that first evening we head to the aptly-named World Café which serves a huge range of dishes from – you guessed it – around the world. It’s self service, and all looks very tempting so it would be pretty easy to get carried away with the choice, but being tired we’re fairly restrained, and after a bottle of wine delivered by our friendly waitress it’s not long before we’re heading to bed.
The cruise starts with two days in Istanbul so the following morning we join our first excursion. All planned with military precision, some are included as part of your cruise, others you pay a small premium for. We joined the Highlights of Istanbul tour, but quickly learned that a day was hardly enough to discover such a remarkable city where East and West and Asia and Europe collide.
While some of the Jules Verne types may seek to plan their own thing, and good luck to them, let me tell you how great it is to have transport, entry tickets and full audio with expert local guides all pre-organised for you. It allows so much time to enjoy the experience without feeling like you’re having your hand held and Viking make the most of this effective formula. Istanbul’s landmarks such as the Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia and Topkapi Palace are all extraordinary and on reflection we should probably have arrived a day earlier to take advantage of this truly extraordinary city.
Back on the ship mid-afternoon it was time to relax, and going from the bustle of one of the world’s busiest cities to total calm with a quiet book in one of the huge number of quiet spaces deliberately created for guests to hide away in makes us understand how carefully designed this ship is. There are several lounges, for reading, puzzles and chess, on the top deck is a vast open space with deck games, there’s a walking track, a library and right in the middle is a swimming pool with a retractable roof.
There are two major dining areas where booking is not required, the World Café and The Restaurant. The former is where you have breakfast, and again your choices are truly global, seamlessly morphing for lunch and then again for dinner. Adjoining it, the Aquavit Terrace acts as an al fresco dining option or a base for the busy bar when the weather permits.
That night we headed to The Chef’s Table for dinner, where sommeliers and chefs work in tandem to create perfect pairings. It’s elegant without being overly formal and we relax at our table for two and watch the city retreat beyond the windows. From the basilicas, markets, mosques and shops of Istanbul, the world changes completely in just a few hours, and so with the horizon fading into darkness we cruise through the Aegean with just the faint sound of the engines to lull us to sleep.
The next morning we dock in Çanakkale for our visit to Troy. Long steeped in myth, we hear stories of Trojan heroes, the famous wooden horse, and the days of Alexander the Great and Emperor Augustus. It’s a moving insight into fascinating Ancient Greek history, and the complexity and sophistication of the buildings and infrastructure which can still be seen amongst the ruins is quite breathtaking.
With a slightly longer journey ahead we depart Çanakkale early afternoon heading to Kusadasi (Ephesus), and spend the afternoon on board beside the pool. Post-swim, my mission was to beat my best friend and travel companion at a total of six games on the upper decks, from mini golf to quoits. As you know, it’s the taking part that’s key in this type of activity, the result is completely unimportant (I lost) but there’s always another day.
Another night saw another restaurant for dinner. This time, The Restaurant. It’s the main dining area and more formal than the World Café, as the name suggests. The design is overtly Scandinavian, calming and polished, and the menu includes a choice of regional cuisine reflecting each destination on the itinerary, alongside familiar classic dishes. It’s worth saying at this point that throughout the ship, from our adorable steward and stewardess who looked after our every need as if we were the only guests on board, to all the many waiters, and senior officers, service is super slick and very friendly.
As well as tours, and food, one aspect that Viking takes especially seriously and delivers particularly well is making sure that, should you wish, you can take in talks and lectures so you have a greater knowledge of where you’re heading next. As with most cruises there is a choice of evening entertainment and just a snapshot of some of the goings-on for the evening include team trivia, a Mamma Mia! re-run in the cinema and the Viking Vesta Vocalists, with their rendition of some of the great musical numbers from the West End and Broadway, in the Theatre. As we head to the busy Explorers’ Bar for a nightcap and to make a plan for the following day it is interesting to see how our fellow guests are choosing to relax and just how seamless the whole experience is.
Docking in Kusadasi, we jump on the bus to Ephesus. Definitely a highlight of the trip for us, Ephesus is one of the ancient world’s best preserved cities, with many of its ruins making up one of the largest and most significant metropolises of the ancient past. Excavations reach back to the 10th century BC and we learn just how far we, in Britain, were behind this part of the world at that time in history – they were building libraries while we were still living in caves! The towering colonnades of the Library of Celsus, built to house 12,000 scrolls, are extraordinary, as are the streets of fresco-covered houses once home to the Ancient Roman elite, and the massive amphitheatre that once sat 25,000 spectators.
Day four done, we take our usual seats in what has now become our favourite post-excursion bar as we head to Rhodes. Hilariously our phones are trying to keep up as we constantly switch time zones from Turkey to Greece and back again. Dinner tonight is in Manfredi’s, which is probably our favourite and definitely a must-book. Here the lighting is more subdued, and the mood is very relaxed and calming – think a feast of flavours with a mood of la dolce vita.
Our next port of call is Rhodes, where the historic quarter is still Europe’s largest active medieval town. Excursions on offer included a tour of the fortified Palace of the Grand Master of the Knights of Rhodes, the Acropolis of Lindos and others but given the close proximity of the Old Town to the port, we decide to just do our own thing. This meant several things: firstly a lie in, secondly a leisurely breakfast and thirdly a stroll into Rhodes Old Town where the warren of ancient cobbled streets merge into each other, cafés combat with shops for your attention, and both prices and quality are good. It’s one of those places where you can mix a bit of cultural curiosity with some downtime.
By now the Viking Vesta layout was totally familiar and as the seas calmed we settled in one of our favourite spaces, the upper level of the Explorers’ Lounge. Viking cruises are for adults only, though older children do travel with their parents. On board, the mood is calm and assured, not fancy or bling. Stylish and sophisticated yes, but relaxed too and with a standard of service that mixes friendliness with total professionalism, the bar is set high, very high.
Our final destination is the port of Piraeus and from there to Athens. Even more than in Istanbul, the traffic is nightmarish so having the calming wisdom of our guide talking us through the highlights and history as we made our way slowly to the Acropolis was a blessing. Once there, it’s a climb up to this pinnacle of Ancient Greece, often referred to as ‘the birthplace of democracy’ and it’s simply extraordinary. With views across one of the great cities, this open-air museum is astonishing. Built more than 2,600 years ago, it’s where revered Greek philosophers like Plato and Aristotle formulated new ideas of government and debated its role in civic life to captivated audiences in the colonnaded Parthenon. Remnants of spiritual life are also here in the temples to Athena and Zeus.
With plenty of time to explore, it’s already very busy and it’s nowhere near mid-morning, so we gradually head back down the 80 steps to the park below and jump back on the bus which takes us into Athens’ Plaka district with its many shops and family-run tavernas. Called the Neighbourhood of the Gods because it sits under the shadow of the Acropolis, its labyrinth alleys are filled with 19th-century neoclassical homes, ancient Roman ruins and Byzantine churches, and with Viking shuttle buses on hand to take you back to your ship, you can spend as much or as little time exploring and shopping here as you wish.
The real key to the success of this cruise was to combine adventure with discovery. It’s a learning experience cleverly wrapped in great comfort and care, with good food shared with some great new companions from across the globe. Viking also have another welcome attribute, in their words no ‘nickel and diming’. Once you’re onboard you don’t need to put your hand in your pocket at all. Food and drink (including wine and beer) are included in packages, all excursions are pre-planned and paid for as required, and many are offered as part of the cruise, as are the spa, gym, port-talks, lectures and entertainment.
So forget any preconceptions. Open up the world map and see where you want to go. Expect excellence, look forward to some remarkable experiences and know that while the planning is fun, the delivery is so much better.
