What You Need to Know About Hyaluronic Acid
The truth behind beauty's favourite humectant
Hyaluronic acid has become a watch-word in beauty. It attracts and can hold water up to 1,000s its own weight which is how it helps skin to look plumper and smoother, softening fine lines and helping support the skin’s own barrier with good hydration. So far so good. But it’s a common misconception that hyaluronic acid is a moisturiser on its own. Yes it adds water, but it doesn’t add lipids, so without pairing with an effective moisturiser the hydration it provides can evaporate pretty quickly, and because it draws water from wherever it can, in dry, centrally-heated or air-conditioned rooms it may draw moisture from deeper skin layers – ultimately leading to tightness or dryness.
Overuse can also backfire. If you layer multiple hyaluronic acid products onto skin it can lead, paradoxically, to the skin feeling dehydrated. And if using with strong actives such as popular retinoids or other acids, without enough barrier support skin can become irritated and even inflamed.
Used correctly it can of course be a game-changer. So the best way to gain the most from your ‘miracle’ hyaluronic acid is to apply it to already damp skin and seal with your favourite moisturising cream or serum over the top.
Choosing the right one for you is also critical. There are so many, from budget-friendly daily hydrators to more advanced formulas with multi-weight or barrier-supporting benefits, and be aware that the molecular weight of your chosen HA matters. A low molecular-weight HA penetrates more deeply but can trigger irritation or inflammation in some skin types. A high-molecular-weight HA stays on the surface and is gentler but more temporary. Sadly, many products don’t clearly disclose which type they use, so do your research carefully.
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Budget and beginner-friendly options include The Ordinary Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5, £15.50, which offers hydration alongside vitamin B5 to help support the skin barrier. CeraVe’s Hydrating Hyaluronic Acid Serum, £23, adds ceramides alongside HA, helping restore the skin’s barrier and lock in hydration – great for dry or sensitive skin.
Pricier picks often include multiple molecular weights of HA alongside anti-ageing ingredients such as peptides to boost elasticity and plump fine lines, and often have more sophisticated delivery systems for deeper hydration. Stand-outs for mature skin include Trinny London’s Plump Up Peptide+ HA Serum, £72, for extra firmness and bounce. Lancôme’s Génifique Ultimate Serum, £56, is a cult luxury anti-ageing serum with hyaluronic acid and bifidus ferment to strengthen and smooth mature skin, and Perricone MD High Potency Intensive Hydrating Serum, £83, is great for mature skin needing deep hydration.
Anyone with sensitive skin should look for gentle, fragrance-free formulas such as Kiehl’s High Potency Serum, £23.50, and La Roche Posay Hyalu B5 HA Serum, £26, a dermatologist’s favourite with vitamin B5 to help soothe and support skin.
Combination skins will love Beauty Pie’s Triple Hyaluronic Acid Lipopeptide Serum, £40, a multi-HA lightweight formula with peptides, or Allies Of Skin Multi Hyaluronic Antioxidant Hydration Serum, £50. Lightweight and antioxidant-rich, it’s a great choice for combination skin that still needs nourishment without oiliness.
